Malaysia, which is split in half by the South China Sea, is a country of contrasting cultures. Although it is predominantly Muslim, Eastern Malaysia consists of Malaysian Borneo, a mostly Christian region, while to its left lies Peninsular Malaysia, which is the more developed, Westernised area, home to the dazzling capital city Kuala Lumpur, acres of virgin jungle and neighbour to the popular islands of Langkawi and Penang. Differing socioeconomic and religious groups live side-by-side in relative harmony, creating an array of perfectly fused Pan-Asian food and adjacent areas in each city that boast colourful temples, dramatic architecture and endless places to enjoy explosive cuisine.

Kuala Lumpur is seductive, though two or three days stay will prove sufficient. The Petronas Towers are breathtaking and best viewed at night from nearby clubs such as the Skybar at the top of neighbouring Traders Hotel.

A trendy hotspot for wealthy locals and expats alike, it has open windows that offer unadulterated views of what was the world’s tallest building before the UAE construction boom.

KL’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel is widely considered the inner-city leader, however, those wanting something a little more tranquil and not within walking distance of so much nocturnal temptation, will love the Club at the Saujana Resort in the Shah Alam district. First off, its spa alone makes its slightly greener locale worthwhile.

With products developed by Swiss dermatologist Dr HaraldGerny, the treatments are out of this world.

Most rooms overlook the hotel’s esteemed 18-hole golf course and all exude a calming, contemporary Asian décor.

After a brief flight across the water, I found myself in Penang. Now comparatively industrialised, it has been criticised for its rapid development, yet I was thrilled to find it still has much to offer and for food lovers, it’s an essential stop.

A very overused term today, the ‘fusion’ fare of Penang is an authentic blend of both local and foreign spices, cooking methods and flavours. The night markets showcase some excellent local favourites such as beef Rendang and the Chowrasta and PulauTikus wet markets are best viewed early in the morning, offering endless rows of fish, meat, spices, vegetables and often unrecognisable fruits.

Hotels and haute cuisine
Despite quite heavy development in recent years, Georgetown is home to the infamous Eastern & Oriental Hotel, which fringes the city’s UNESCO heritage site. A gleaming white colonial building that perches on the edge of the sea, the lobby of this historical site is crowned with an enormous gilded dome while the rooms, aflutter with crisp, white linens and antique dressers, transport one straight back to the early 1900s.

Outside of Georgetown and located on BatuFerringhi beach, I explored the newly opened Lone Pine Hotel. Of 1960s design, it has been recently renovated and reopened with its slick pool, tangy interiors and solitary hammocks dotted between pine trees along the beach. The recently opened Japanese restaurant is bound for great success and, for those making a stay of it, the suites alongside the sea are homes from home.

Just along the beach from Lone Pine, I discovered a family-run seafood restaurant like no other: Taitong Seafood. At number 4 Jalan Hassan Abbas, this road-side establishment of plastic chairs and gaudy Buddhas served the freshest seafood, all swimming in buckets when you arrive, ready for selection by diners.

First resorts
From Penang, a flight to nearby Langkawi takes less than half an hour and it is there that one feels ensconced in the true Malaysia, the interior jungle and rainforest a firm nod to the country’s original topographical nature.

Heading North up PantaiChenang from Chenang Beach on the island’s west coast, my first stop was the magical Bon Ton and Temple Tree resorts.

The former is literally a series of antique stilted fisherman’s homes, reconstructed on the property and beautifully decorated by one of the owners, a charming Australian interior designer called Narelle.

Temple Tree, right next door, is a series of charming and lovingly-restored houses from across Malaysia, Singapore and China, which have been taken down from their original location and rebuilt. ‘Black and White’ house, for example, has an entire wall of multi-coloured glass and a bespoke wooden bathtub within its bedroom while ‘Penang’ house is a delightful, green-hued space with lapping wooden ceiling fans and a view of the pool. Their restaurant ‘Nam’ should be tried whether you stay there or not, if only for its perfect Laksa.

Like a jewel in the crown sits the infamous Datai on the north-western side of Langkawi. Literally carved into the sloping rainforest that blends into Datai Bay, it is as beautiful as it is luxurious and after only moments within its walls, one can see why it is revered the world over.

The rooms hang like canopies in the jungle; those with a view across to the Thai islands in the distance feel somehow suspended in thin air. The two main restaurants, the Pavilion and the Gulai House, serve up Indian and Thai cuisine, both of which are created with immense authenticity, while the Beach Club means you don’t have to move too far from either of the perfect pools to eat.

Towards the east of the island down the Datai Road is the equally thrilling Four Seasons resort. The restaurants and bars of this chain’s Malay venture are buzzing; the delicate interiors do little to detract from the awe-inspiring views and apartment-sized rooms, and each one comes with a huge stone bathroom leading to an outdoor hot tub or shower. Flooring throughout the property is carefully constructed with antique Borneo rail sleepers, while the spa reminds Four Seasons fans of why they are so loved.

If time permits, a jaunt to the eastern coast of the main peninsular is highly recommended, if only to visit the TanjongJara resort.

The western area is far more traditional and the large majority of residents are Muslim so this does mean covering up somewhat for excursions, but TanjongJara will give you little need to leave its land.

Designed with 17th century Malay palaces in mind, water-front suites are draped in local fabrics and woods. The ocean edges the resort so guests experience its lapping sound from every angle and the Spa Village has, rightly, encouraged international acclaim. Those wanting to hone their Malay cooking skills will adore Chef Ann, an establishment in her own right after so many years cooking at the property. Today, she organises tours to the nearby Dungun wet market before teaching guests how to make classics such as butter prawns. Diving lovers flock to the east coast for its purer waters and can relish early mornings with the on-site diving excursions.

Malaysia’s beauty was, at times, unrivalled and its infrastructure flawless, making it a seamless and delightful country to explore. With so many leading places to stay, (not to mention all that food) there is now more reason than ever to visit. A fast-moving player on the economic stage, it is a fast-moving but somehow retains a predominantly traditional vibe and it is clear that building and development, especially in Langkawi, is somewhat regulated. With several weeks there I left feeling I’d barely scratched the surface, especially where all that fabulous cuisine was concerned.