Elegantly dressed in a navy blue suit, Rogerio Fasano is seated
in one of the leather armchairs of his hotel in the Jardins
neighbourhood of São Paulo. Calmly, he points to a slightly
crooked golden lamp illuminating an old map in the lobby. For
one hour I have been looking at that lamp and wondering how
people let that happen, he says. At 47-years-old Fasano
has already had two strokes: one at 37 and the other at 42.
Yet still he goes on smoking and worrying about each lamp,
just as he cares about every dish that comes out of each kitchen
in the eleven restaurants, bars and hotels the Fasano Group
owns in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Fasano says he
is the first victim of his own perfectionism, and
this intense, Brazilianborn Italian may not be exaggerating.
As one of the most important businessmen in Brazil, Fasano
has renewed
the tradition of his Italian family and set the standards for
a contemporary
image of the country, and he has no intention of stopping. The
Fasano Group
is expanding, with three new hotel enterprises on the way. Next
year a Fasano
hotel will open at Fazenda Boa Vista, located in a luxury country
complex
created by partner JHSF Group. Properties in Punta del Este
on the Uruguayan
coast and Trancoso in north-east Brazil are next on Fasanos
agenda.
Gastronomy and hospitality are the channels through which Fasano,
an ex-cinema student, chooses to express his views, and he does
it with rigour.
His productions are classical with a twist. In most of Fasanos
creations there are no big extravagances in food or style. Think
of the sober colours and noble ingredients in a traditional
linguine alle vongoli fresche.
Spaces have a masculine sophistication with smells of leather
and expensive cigars backed by a soundtrack of bossa nova. Even
the most recent project, the Fasano hotel in Rio de Janeiro,
which was decorated by celebrated French designer Philippe Starck,
follows the aesthetic.
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Fasano appreciates the creative atmosphere that flourished
in Brazil in the 1950s and 60s, epitomised by architects such
as Sergio Bernardes and Oscar Niemeyer, and musicians such as
Tom Jobin and Nara Leão. The hotel in Rio followed this
inspiration.
In Brazil the Fasano family name is a well-known synonym for
gastronomy. Most people tend to assume that Rogerio smoothly
followed the family footsteps in the manner of a Godfather plot.
The truth was not this straightforward, however.
Until 1982 all Fasano knew about restaurants came from memories
of his childhood spent among the tables of the restaurants his
grandfather Ruggero owned in the 40s to the 60s, and also mythical
tales of his grand-grandfather Vittorios restaurant. Vittorio
was a Milanese who went to Brazil in 1902 and opened Brasserie
Paulista in the centre of São Paulo.
The name later changed to Fasano and the restaurant lasted
into the 30s. Both businessmen became important figures in São
Paulo and their restaurants represented the urban Brazil that
was emerging at the time.
But when Grandpa Ruggero died in 1968, Fabrizio, Rogerios
father, decided to discontinue the family business. A talented,
charismatic and self-made man, Fabrizio, who is now 73, created
the first locally produced whisky, made with eight-year-old
aged malts, Old Eight.
Traumatised by living and sleeping at the family restaurants
because of his father and grandfathers workaholism, Fabrizio
discouraged his own children from entering the same trade.
Starter for one
In 1982, Rogerio Fasano was living in London, studying
cinema and looking for a job, when the phone rang. We
just received an offer to open the Fasano restaurant,
his father said.
Congratulations, Fasano answered, not understanding
that it was a proposal for him to get into action. At first
Fasano did not accept, but a month later he was back in São
Paulo to inaugurate the restaurant, which remained open for
only six months.
At this point the family was experiencing tough times. A whisky
blend recently launched by Fabrizios company had not sold
well. Following the six-month lifetime of the first restaurant,
another one at a different address was also less successful
than expected.
Fortunes changed in the 90s, however, when the Fasano family
launched another project in a big neoclassical house in the
heart of one of the most celebrated areas of São Paulo:
the Jardins.
Fasano established a partnership with one of the most important
architects in Brazil, his friend Isay Weinfeld, and together
they travelled the world searching for old furniture pieces,
design inspiration and food.
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We dont travel to Milan to look for trends; we
travel to Italy to eat, Weinfeld once said.
Fasano runs the business, his father does the administrative
work, and his sister Andrea is in charge of the catering unit.
Fasano controls every move of his waiters, most of who have
worked for the familys restaurants for a long time, some
for 15 or even 20 years. Fasano monitors the growing abilities
and limitations of all his staff.
Sometimes he seems not to be paying attention to something
or someone, then he describes it in detail, says Manoel
Beato, Fasanos sommelier, who has worked with the family
for 18 years. Beato has learned to interpret his visions. Fasano
does not like to hire models as hostesses or actors as waiters.
I like waiters who love the business, he says: Waiters
who dream of being maître d and a maître d
who dreams of being a restaurant owner.
He is also conservative in his gastronomic choices. If you
want to have fun, ask Fasano to tell you his thoughts on foams,
mustard ice cream or dishes that come to the table with an iPod
in order for the customer to fully experience the
dish.
I believe in ten years we wont be able to stand
tasting most of todays gastronomic trends, Fasano
says. I enjoy things food and environments
that I will still find beautiful in thirty years time.
If you ask what category Fasano hotels fall under, Rogerio
will tell you that they are not designer or boutique hotels.
He dislikes the terminology and what it represents. This
is an owners hotel; a hotel in which the owner is ever
present. In his view the reason all his business enterprises
are so successful is the mix they create.
You can spot top executives meeting, playboys with their cigars
and designers sitting next to a stylish older couple
people from their twenties to their sixties. Although the atmosphere
at the hotel is very sophisticated, Fasanos luxury is
far from oppressive or heavy, unlike some luxury enterprises
in emerging countries. People in Fasano restaurants are not
frozen.
They flirt and they may assume airs, but they talk loudly and
they are very alive. It is a reflection of the hotels
owner, who carries the natural elegance of an intense man who
talks energetically, smokes, and may get a little nervous about
those things that escape from his control, such as lamps.
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