London-based Canadian-born Todd Lynn has been carving himself
a wildly successful fashion niche in the grand tradition of
stadiumscale rock and roll tailors.
Just as Antony Price dressed Bryan Ferry, Grace Jones mused
for Issey Miyake and Stephen Sprouse engineered the visual essence
of Debbie Harry and Blondie, Lynns designs have become
synonymous with a very individual and authentic kind of contemporary
rock star.
His dark and edgy collections are a favourite of Courtney Love;
hes created bespoke outfits for The Rolling Stones and
PJ Harvey; and he continues to be under contract to U2 to create
the bulk of their tour wardrobe. At his February show in London
Janet Jackson sat in the front row with Marc Almond and tweeted
rapturous praise for his work.
When he began working as a fashion student in Toronto in the
late 90s,
leather was his first tailoring textile of choice, both out
of necessity (you
just couldnt get good fabric in Canada, he says)
and for its connotations.
His early influences were the sci-fi imagery of HR Giger and
the dark
musical underground of The Cramps and The Sisters of Mercy.
Lynns career was kick-started in 1996 when his friend,
the celebrated music
video director Floria Sigismondi, commissioned him to create
outfits to be
worn by Marilyn Manson in the promo clip for the single Beautiful
People.
Two years later he moved from Toronto to London to study at
Saint Martins, and then went on to assist red carpet womenswear
wizard Roland Mouret. Lynn launched his own label with a spring/summer
2007 London Fashion Week show that was a paradigm of his rock
star chic aesthetic: black, white and grey tailoring defined
by cut-throat sharp lines,
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Mark C O'Flaherty: Whats happening
with the Todd Lynn label this season?
Todd Lynn:
For this summers collection, Tin Hinan, I have an expanded
range of product, with a specific focus on menswear. There has
been such a demand from the mens side of the collection
from all sectors stores, customers, press and celebrities.
The foundation of the collection started in menswear, which
has always been a crucial part. It remains the starting point,
and acts as a kind of explanation, for the womenswear. In my
first show there were 21 outfits, but only six were actually
womens. However, I had to do womenswear because there
are no mens shows in London. Over the seasons the demand
for the womenswear has been overwhelming, but now its
time for me to really give some concentration to the labels
roots.
Of course, the quality remains the same. With the kind of limited
production I do theres inevitably a high price point,
but at the same time I think modern
luxury isnt about what you can afford, but about exclusivity.
Theres a lot
of buzz around the trainer boot that I showed for the autumn
La Chasse
collection and which I worked on with Louboutin. A limited number
are
going into Harvey Nichols for the new season.
MF: How do you feel about design right now; what do you think
defines this summers aesthetic?
pinched-in waists and elegantly flared wrist silhouettes, all
with a touch of dandy and a soupçon of goth. Since the
2007 show his label has continued to grow, but with a meticulous
eye on near-couture quality rather than on diffusion and mass
market appeal. His work is produced in incredibly small editions,
with many pieces numbered (one of five, one of 25 etc) and most
of it produced in the finest fabrics and with flawless attention
to detail at his factory in France.
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TL: There cant be a looking back to the past. Its
all about forward thinking: modern grungy-goth shoe gazers in
something bright! I think that we need some fantasy in our wardrobes.
With the recession, everyone is getting bored with the whole
doom and gloom thing. From now on I think its going to
be all about styling yourself up. Therell be a bit of
customisation, but a little less home craft
and a lot more customised styling. New ideas are emerging on
the street and creativity is overflowing into the gutters of
those same streets. So pay close attention to whats walkin
past!
MF: Whats your style for this
season?
TL: Id call it modern
grunge - something slick with something tattered. Its
about layering and the disguising of glamour.
So many people with wealth are choosing to disguise their
spending patterns, whether thats by shopping online or
dressing less flashy in the street. My work always revolves
around a dress up with the tattered aesthetic and
its something that works with the economics of today.
Its a style adjustment that fits the new attitude.
MF: What excites you?
TL: Im so excited
that we are fully into the new millennium. I love starting things
with a clean slate, kinda like New Years Day; its
a bit like what confession must be like, starting afresh. And
this is the start of a whole decade. I could barely contain
myself at the start of the new millennium.
MF: Outside of your field,
who do you think will be big this summer?
TL: The Dead Weather. They
may have released their second album and they are all independently
very successful already, but as a musical project in its own
right this is definitely gaining momentum. Super groups are
great!
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