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Vintage Performances
From Jeffrey Beaumont and Special Agent
Cooper to Orson Hodge and Josef K, Kyle MacLachlans
career has enjoyed a rich variety of mysterious characters which,
as he explains to Richard Middleton, is
why he is keen for his wine to be of a similar ilk.
Growing up in a pretty backwater town in Washington State, there
was little to link a youthful wannabe actor to any sort of oenophile
pursuits.
Yakima wasnt much of a wine town back then, MacLachlan
says, talking from his Manhattan home where he spends much of his
time now.
There were keggers, I think they were called. Theyd
get hold of a keg of beer, open it up, and then wed all get
plastic cups and fill up and sit around, as you did back then. But
Id just be stuck with this one beer getting warmer all night
long; one glass would last that long.
But Yakima was a lovely little place to grow up in, and it
was where I probably had my first real connection with wine.
Id go over to my girlfriends at the time and
wed have dinner. Wed get a small glass of wine and it
seemed grown up, it was where I kind of understood what the point
of it was.
New world
After finishing school, his drinking habits settled on new horizons.
MacLachlan moved to study at college in Seattle, where his dislike
of beer continued to push his desire for wine, particularly of the
more robust red variety.
As he moved further south to set up shop among the aspiring writers
and down-and-out actors in Hollywood, his career continued a steady
trajectory and resulted in several minor film and stage parts.
And then the break came, and his future received the giant shot
in the arm it required. Aged just 25, he met director extraordinaire
David Lynch. I first met David when auditioning for Dune,
he explains. I did my screen tests and afterwards we found
we both had an interest in wine.
Id done my audition and once Id finished he sent
me a bottle of Lynch Bages as his sign of saying Id got the
part, which was a very nice thing to do.
We still trade a bottle every so often, for a birthday or
some celebration perhaps, he says. And the 1995 is drinking
nicely now, he adds reflectively. It really is very
good.
Although his appearance as Paul Atreides in Lynchs Dune was
wellreceived, it now simply acts as the precursor to a character
who many still believe defines his career.
His appearance as special agent Dale Cooper in Twin Peaks, another
Lynch masterpiece, packaged up as a TV series which has gone on
to achieve cult status despite consisting of only two series, projected
MacLachlan to the masses as a talented actor with a canny ability
to play complex characters. And his passion for wines of a similar
nature was beginning to develop.
My interest in wine led me to start exploring the Napa Valley
during the mid-1980s, he says. Wed take trips
out and spend time on the vineyards tasting the wines. And then
we got to know some of the growers and producers and the production
side became more interesting to me.
Mysterious characters continued to be handed to MacLachlan throughout
the 1990s, including that of Josef in Franz Kafkas The Trial,
though perhaps less so with his ill-fated decision to star in Paul
Verhoevens Showgirls. But elsewhere the versatile actor continued
to impress, expanding his expertise on Broadway in The Caretaker
and more recently in Sex and the City and Desperate Housewives,
with roles that ensured his fame for a new, post-Lynch generation.
As MacLachlans career ballooned on an international scale,
his work took him further and further from home, and his visits
home became less frequent.
Good legs
That was until his wedding to producer Desiree Gruber. Burdened
with the task of finding wines for the upcoming celebration, he
headed back home where his father still lived, and in nearby Walla
Walla he found that a small revolution had begun. Vineyards had
sprung up, with surprisingly good results
It was around the early 2000s when I first noticed that each
time Id return home Id find my sleepy little home state
had all these new people and a new interest in wine, he says.
One of the most respected vineyards was to be found at Eric Dunhams
set-up and, after picking a desert wine for the wedding meal from
Dunhams Cellars, he proceeded to tie the knot and to produce
his own wine.
I met Eric and immediately liked his personality and the
fact that he could make very good wines and knew what he was doing,
MacLachlan explains.
It also felt like I was returning home, and it was a reason
to go back and visit my father and involve him. Both my brothers
live in Seattle so Id swing by and say hello to them too.
I also liked Erics family. I felt very comfortable there.
It just seemed like the place to go. And its by no means
a one-man project, Eric is the wine maker. It is definitely a collaboration
between us. MacLachlan set out on his project with a blend
of Cabernet and Merlot grapes from the Lewis vineyard, a touch of
Syrah, a steady rest in oak barrels and an increasing sense of enthusiasm.
Dunhams expertise and the MacLachlans increasing confidence
in his abilities ensured the project got off to a good start, and
resulted in regular visits to see how the product was coming together.
Bear essentials
After a meal with friends inspired the brands name, ...pursued
by bear, was born. Named after a Shakespeare stage direction in
The Winters Tale, MacLachlans wine hit the shelves in
September 2008 and was immediately well received, receiving a 91
from Wine Enthusiast.
I still go up there every couple of months, certainly for
harvest, sorting the grapes and the crush. I also go for the tasting,
blending and bottling. Im absolutely involved in the process.
And its a great wine. Its got the qualities that
Washington State wines are famed for: blackberry, blueberry and
cherry components, a bit of minerality and that brightness and slight
acidity, which is so important.
The structure is also a very distinguishing factor I think;
it all hangs on those tannins, nothing harsh and not flabby. Its
not too oaked and not too sweet either, he says, his enthusiasm
infectious.
MacLachlan still tries to immerse himself in his oenophile pursuits,
with ...pursued by bear now offering three separate years, albeit
still in equally small quantities of around 300 cases.
Well keep the project going for as long as we can,
he adds. The 2007 is in the bottle, Id like to leave
it there for another year but you know how it is. Then theres
the 2008 still in the barrel, which well probably bottle this
fall, or perhaps early winter.
MacLachlan will return to his roots again in the autumn, when the
years grapes are ready for harvest. Despite his highprofile
city life in Los Angeles and New York, he can still visit Walla
Walla with minimum fuss, and this is extended to the wine brand
of his creation; precious little suggests MacLachlan's involvement
with ...pursued by bear, unlike many celebritybacked consumer products.
The promotion side of things has been easier for me, thats
true, MacLachlan adds. But I wanted it to be something
that was definitely not a vanity project.
I wanted people to buy it for the quality of the product, and perhaps
afterwards, they might discover whos behind it.
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